Begin the back lining by cutting a rectangle of muslin that begins one to two inches below your neck and extends to the bottom of your stays.  The rectangle should extend past the outward edge of the armscye. Pin firmly in place along the vertical line on the mannequin at center back. You will add the center back seam allowance later in the process.

Using a fabric marking pen, draw along the top to the shoulder, then angle down the shoulder.  Draw a line along the waist of your stays, leaving enough fabric to turn up as a seam allowance.  Begin trimming and making adjustments.

Trace the bodice pattern piece you will be using onto tissue paper.  Do NOT use your original pattern piece. Place the paper tracing on your form and see where you need to enlarge or reduce the pattern.

This piece needs to be enlarged along the center front.  The pattern is slashed and then placed on top of a piece of muslin.  The muslin is  re-cut and that now becomes a pattern piece.

New muslin pattern piece.

The muslin needs more room at center front. A piece of muslin was taped in place. Blue painters tape is very effective and sticks well to fabric.

Front and back pieces are re-cut and fitted one more time.  These are now your permanent patterns.  Some seamstresses will now use these pieces as linings for the gown, but I prefer to re-cut new pieces and save these for future use.

Original gown linings were often white/cream colored glazed medium weight linen.  The linen must be well woven and not stretchy, it needs to hold its shape as you construct your gown.  Starching the linen prior to cutting will help give body to the lining as well as reduce fraying.

The fashion fabric was cut to length for the center back piece.  The measure was taken from 2 inches below the neck to two inches above the floor, the seam allowance for the hem is 1/2 and is included in this measurement.

34" wide

55" long

The wool fabric was cut to mimic the width of the original, which was 34" selvedge to selvedge.

I double checked the measurement against another gown that fits well.  The fabric needs to be pressed prior to making the pleats.

The back fabric is folded in half, right sides together and a line drawn with chalk.  This line should extend the full length of the back pleat, starting 1/2" at the top and extending to 1 and 1/2" at the end of the pleat.  Tapering this seam allows the center back to snug up and lie flat against the lower back.

Blue linen thread is used to sew along the chalked line, using a backstitch.  After sewing this seam, it was trimmed and pressed open. 

The fabric is placed face up and then the back pleats are formed. The pleats are pinned in place, then stitched down.  The stitch used for this is usually a prick stitch or a running stitch.  I chose to use the running stitch following the original garment.

Front Side Bodice piece.  The side back pieces are pressed under 1/4 inch and placed and lapped over center back. I use a back stitch on top of the fabric to secure this lapped seam, being careful not to catch the bottom 1/2" of the lining, as this needs to be turned under to finish the lining.

Center front showing the lining attached. 

 Prior to attaching skirt sides the center back fabric is trimmed using the lining as a guide.  The back skirt fabric is cut to just under the stitched down pleats.  Two rectangular panels were cut for the side skirts.  A measure was taken from the top of the trimmed side back to the bottom edge and that measure was used as the length measure.  This fabric was also cut to approximate the original and is 34 inches wide.  The side panels are attached using a running back stitch.

The first pleat  is placed just under the stitched back and faces outward toward center front.  There are eight knife pleats on each side, each 1 inch wide.

Pleats shown with bodice front attached.  Last front pleat is 1 1/2 inches wide.  Front edge is narrow hemmed for 11 inches.

Apron front is prepared using a wide center front pleat, the side pleats are facing toward the edges.  The top 11 inches of the side fronts are narrow hemmed. 

Apron front is attached to side fronts. A running back stitch was used to attach the pieces.

Apron Front top piece is cut to fit over the pleats. Both long edges are pressed 1/4 inch to the inside.

Sleeve side edges are attached and sewn with strong thread using a backstitch. Excess lining will be trimmed when sleeve is finished.  The angle of attachment is towards where the shoulder strap will finish the sleeve.

Shoulder straps cut on the straight grain of the fabric to avoid stretching.

Shoulder straps cover top of sleeve head.